André Chiang Returns to Singapore with Whimsical, Time-Bending Restaurant ‘1887’

Taiwanese chef André Chiang has made a highly anticipated return to Singapore, opening his new restaurant, ‘1887 by André’, within the iconic Raffles Singapore. The venture marks a significant homecoming for the chef, who famously closed his acclaimed Restaurant André in 2018. This new establishment is situated in the historic former Raffles Grill, a space that has hosted notable events since its inception in 1887, the same year that lends the restaurant its name.

The culinary concept of ‘1887 by André’ is as unique as its setting, with Chiang designing the menu to traverse through time rather than follow traditional course structures. This approach is inspired by the chef’s deep dive into the archives of Raffles Singapore, unearthing historical menus that have informed a menu capable of taking diners on a journey through culinary eras.

Whimsical Grandeur and Colonial Bones

Interior designer Bill Bensley, known for his extravagant and detailed work, has transformed the 42-seat dining room into a space that evokes a leafy, tropical conservatory. Bensley has masterfully retained the room’s original colonial features, such as arched colonnades and the herringbone parquet flooring, while infusing his signature maximalist aesthetic.

Towering metal-foiled Traveller’s Palms reach towards a trompe-l’oeil glass ceiling, hand-painted with a serene sky and clouds. Adding to the theatrical ambiance are mechanised punkah fans, their blades ingeniously shaped like great green hearts, providing a slow, gentle breeze.

At the entrance, a curved glass cabinet displays a collection of antique silverware from Raffles Singapore, some of which were buried during the Japanese occupation and later recovered. The far end of the room features a raised, semicircular bar, complete with monogrammed stools and a marble top deep enough for guests to dine, catering to walk-ins and solo diners. The overall atmosphere is one of unapologetic theatricality, designed to immerse and delight patrons.

A Culinary Journey Through Time

Chiang’s extensive research into Raffles Singapore’s past menus revealed unexpected historical dishes, including wild rose ice cream and turtle soup, alongside influences from ancient Roman spices. This historical exploration forms the basis of ‘1887 by André’s’ innovative menu.

The menu is conceived as a “time machine,” where each dish represents a different historical period. Depending on the orders placed at a table, diners can find themselves situated within a specific year on a continuum stretching from 1887 to the present day. This dismantles the conventional tasting menu sequence, offering an intriguing selection of nearly 60 dishes that blend Victorian influences, Singaporean classics, and Chiang’s personal signature creations.

For guests who prefer a guided experience, three curated tasting formulas are available, named after French cultural icons: Monet, Eiffel, and Bernhardt. These offer a structured path through the restaurant’s historical and culinary labyrinth. However, the true spirit of ‘1887 by André’ lies in the freedom to explore and mix and match dishes, allowing diners to choose their own temporal dining adventure.

Dishes sampled during a preview included “Légumes en Vessie Sarah Bernhardt,” a Belle Époque technique of cooking vegetables inside a pig’s bladder, alongside a contemporary “Blanquette de Bak Kut Teh” and a “Green Curry King Oyster Mushroom” that required no historical justification for its bold flavors.

A Permanent Culinary Destination

Unlike his previous restaurants, which were often closed at their peak, Chiang envisions ‘1887 by André’ as a more permanent fixture. He aims for it to be a place that generations of diners can return to time and again.

The kitchen operations are overseen by Ben Wang and Roy Kuo, both seasoned chefs trained by Chiang at his former restaurant RAW in Taipei. RAW was described by Chiang as a “gallery, a museum, an exhibition hall,” known for its classic French cuisine and innovative VR dinners. A culinary academy is set to open at the RAW site later this year.

For a chef who has famously returned Michelin stars and closed restaurants at the height of their fame, ‘1887 by André’ feels less like a comeback and more like an act of custodianship—preserving and celebrating culinary heritage for Singapore and its vibrant culture.

Key facts
| Feature | Detail |
|—|—|
| Restaurant Name | 1887 by André |
| Location | Raffles Singapore, 1 Beach Road, Singapore 189673 |
| Chef | André Chiang |
| Interior Designer | Bill Bensley |
| Concept | Culinary journey through time, historical menu influences |
| Seating Capacity | 42 |

The opening of ‘1887 by André’ is significant for the hospitality and design sectors, showcasing a unique collaboration between a renowned chef and an acclaimed designer. It offers a compelling case study in how historical context, avant-garde design, and innovative culinary concepts can converge to create a memorable and enduring dining experience. For readers interested in architecture, interior design, and the evolution of hospitality spaces, this development highlights a trend towards immersive and conceptually rich environments.

Source: Wallpaper – https://www.wallpaper.com/travel/restaurants/1887-by-andre-raffles-singapore-review

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