Simone Rocha Explores Tender Masculinity in Debut Menswear Collection at Pitti Uomo

Irish designer Simone Rocha has unveiled her highly anticipated first standalone menswear collection during Pitti Uomo in Florence. The S/S 2027 show, presented at the historic Teatro Della Pergola on June 18, 2026, marks a significant moment for Rocha, who has previously integrated menswear into her womenswear presentations since 2022.

Rocha’s approach to menswear diverges from traditional interpretations, focusing on what she describes as “the more tender aspects of masculinity.” This collection delves into the nuances of sensitivity and poetry within male identity, offering a subversion of classic men’s silhouettes.

A New Direction for Menswear

Speaking ahead of the show, Rocha explained how separating menswear from womenswear has allowed for a more focused exploration of detail. “Menswear is so much more detail-orientated than womenswear anyway. There’s really nowhere to hide with it,” she noted. This undivided attention has led to innovative reinterpretations of familiar garments.

The collection features a two-button jacket with an unconventional scooped-out back and tie fastening, reminiscent of apron strings. Classic cotton poplin shirts are rendered in intricate broderie anglaise, and traditional Fair Isle knits are engineered with embroidered jacquard motifs. Undergarments such as long-johns and boxer shorts are presented as visible elements of the outfit, challenging conventional layering.

Heritage and Photography

Rocha’s personal heritage, a blend of Chinese and Irish influences, continues to be a wellspring of inspiration. For this collection, she drew particular inspiration from her maternal grandfather, a pharmacist and photographer in the Irish midlands. While he was instrumental in developing photographs for the community, he himself remains largely absent from family pictures. This duality of the viewer versus the viewed became a central theme, exploring the act of being observed.

The choice of venue, the Teatro Della Pergola, Italy’s oldest opera house, further amplified this theme. Rocha has a reputation for selecting evocative locations for her shows, and the theatre’s historical grandeur provided a dramatic backdrop. “I’m very sensitive to where I show,” Rocha stated. “I see it as an extension of the collection.” She found the theatre’s unique backstage window, allowing light to flood the stage, particularly fitting for a menswear presentation.

Cinematic Romance and Florence

The collection also pays homage to cinematic romance, with a particular nod to the 1985 film adaptation of E.M. Forster’s A Room With A View. The cornflower motif, prevalent throughout the designs, is a direct reference to the blossoms featured in the film, which is set in turn-of-the-century Florence. Rocha described the story as embodying “whimsy, and rebellion, and innocence,” sentiments she felt resonated with contemporary feelings. The Tuscan capital itself, with its distinctive light, also played a role in shaping the collection’s aesthetic.

Key facts

This debut menswear collection from Simone Rocha offers a compelling perspective on contemporary masculinity, weaving together personal heritage, artistic influences, and innovative design. For readers interested in the intersection of fashion, culture, and thoughtful design, Rocha’s meticulous approach and thematic depth provide a rich subject for exploration.

Source: Wallpaper – https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion-beauty/simone-rocha-ss-2027-menswear-show-interview